The best Parts to make a Pc for gamming and video editing

Building a gaming computer is about looking cool. But it also can give you an edge and help you win! You may wonder, which parts really are the most important for gaming performance? Read the article below for some helpful advice for building a gaming PC on any budget.

 Determine what processor (CPU) you want to use for your system. Currently, the two leading CPU companies are Intel and AMD. It might be more beneficial to find benchmarks and compare them with current prices.

• Currently, the Intel i5 is the best option, in terms of performance in comparison to price. The i7 is more powerful but the benefit is minimal over the i5 and the price is much higher.^[1]

• A good entry-level option is the AMD Athlon II X4 640, while a good mid-range is the Intel Core i3-3220.^[2]

  This is it, boys and girls. We're nearing the end of days for the PC processor as we know it. There are storms of change on the horizon and it's anyone's guess what the PC will be like in hardware terms when it blows over.

  Right now, things are much as they've always been. You pays your money, you takes your choice. In other words, you get to choose any CPU you like and match it with a motherboard and a graphics card. You've got both AMD and Intel options. And in many cases, you've still got full control over the chip you buy. You can overclock it, underclock it, swap it out and generally mess about with it.

  Trust us on this - much of that could begin to disappear within the next 18 months, so enjoy it while it lasts.

  

  AMD re-wrote its own rule book on GPU make up

  If you're wondering why, there are a number of trends at work. Firstly, AMD's position is pretty precarious. We'll come to that in more detail later, but AMD is truly teetering on the edge of oblivion. Then there's the market's obsession with all things ultra-mobile and the technological trend towards greater feature integration that entails.

  Very likely, it won't be long before you can't buy a drop-in CPU. They'll come soldered onto motherboards. So while we've a few complaints about the current state of play in CPUs, there's a chance we'll soon be looking back on this as a golden age in terms of choice and flexibility. So get out there and revel in it, we say.

• Best graphics cards in the world

There are some great CPUs from both AMD and Intel that can still be enjoyed in true enthusiast fashion. They're fully drop-in-able. They're tweakable. They're fun. And the way the CPU market is going, they'll probably keep getting the job done for at least a couple of years.

During the making of this CPU roundup, it felt like we were living on borrowed time. The PC is in a transitional period and five years from now much of what you take for granted when you spec up a rig will either be gone or very different.

There are two major drivers here: the trend towards ultra-mobile and AMD's failure to really stick it to Intel at the performance end of the market, even if it produces good chips for tighter budgets.

But let's start with that ultra-mobile mania. It explains why all of Intel's mainstream PC processors now contain on-die graphics. With any generation of computer chip, you have a given quantity of transistors available. That transistor 'budget' increases over time as manufacturing technology shrinks individual transistors.

In the past, it was pretty much all spent on improving CPU performance. More complex execution units, more cache, more cores, added features to help the cores like an on-die memory controller.

Already, however, that process has slowed. Intel's latest Ivy Bridge processors are a great example. At around 1.4 billion transistors for the quad-core version, such as a Core i5-3570K, Ivy Bridge is fully 240 million transistors bigger than the Sandy Bridge quad-core chip it replaced, but it doesn't have any additional cores or extra cache. Okay, the execution units are slightly tweaked, but we're talking typically low single-digit improvements in per-clock performance. That's not a lot to show for a 20 per cent increase in complexity.

The logical explanation, of course, is that Intel chucked almost all those 200-odd million transistors at Ivy Bridge's graphics core. The same thing will apply next year when the new Intel Haswell chips arrive. They will still be four-core beasts at best, and most of the increase in transistor count will be blown on improving the integrated graphics.

Intel's X79 chipset and LGA2011 socket still offers pure CPU power - but at a price

The problem is that, to date, Intel's on-die processor graphics has not been gaming worthy. In a mobile PC context, the power efficiency of integrated is great, but on the desktop and if you're into games, it's dead silicon. Worse than that, it means Intel is compromising processor performance - performance you'll actually use - in favour of improving integrated graphics performance that you won't use from crap to merely mediocre.

Eventually Intel's processor graphics will come good for gaming, but we're still several years away from that happening. Anyway, all this is because mobile computing is driving CPU design. Actually, that's not entirely the case - it's also because AMD hasn't stepped up to the plate.

AMD can't compete with the sheer raw performance of Intel's fastest current four-core chips in the LGA1155 socket. And that means it's nowhere near Intel's high-end chips in the LGA2011 socket. LGA2011 chips, of course, don't have processor graphics and are entirely focussed on CPU performance. But without AMD keeping Intel honest, LGA2011 chips are intentionally hobbled and very expensive.

Put it this way: if AMD had a competitive CPU, Intel's six-core LGA2011 CPUs would probably be half the price they are today, and there would also be eight cores on top. Put it all together and the unavoidable, undeniable conclusion is that Intel's desktop CPUs are already nothing like what they would be if Intel was simply focusing on performance.

But what of AMD? Well, that's an entirely different problem. And it's all to do with execution. Put simply, everything AMD has launched in the past five years has been too late and too slow. That's a great pity because AMD is more likely to sell straightforward CPUs in the configurations that desktop PC enthusiasts want. Plus, if those CPUs were more competitive, Intel would surely be forced to do things differently, too.

On the bright side

Intel's latest Ivy Bridge chips are as much about graphics as CPU performance. And that's a problem

At this stage, we've painted a pretty bleak picture of the state of PC processors. But actually, things are still pretty good. You can still buy CPUs separately and mix and match them with motherboards and GPUs, allowing you to get the performance balance just so.

And AMD's chips are still competitive at certain price points, which has a knock-on effect across the market. More to the point, while it's likely CPU performance would be even higher if AMD had played a better game in recent years, of course today's processors are still extremely effective bits of kit. Intel may not have actually added cores to its mainstream chips, but it has done a very good job of improving per-core performance.

Sandy Bridge was a huge step forward in that regard and the latest Ivy Bridge processors raised the game a little further. All of which means that these are still the good times, right now. Five years from now, it's hard to say, but it's extremely likely you'll have a lot less choice, and year-on-year CPU performance increases may have slowed to a trickle - AMD may be a goner, for instance, and it's likely you won't be able to buy a stand alone CPU and drop it into your motherboard of choice. A few years after that, you may have to swallow motherboard, CPU and graphics in one big pill.

Back in the here and now though, let's enjoy what's on offer. If you're gaming mad, like us, the good news is that you don't need to go right to the top of Intel's current catalogue to get great performance. Intel's mainstream quads are still outrageously good. For those on tighter budgets, there are some very compelling options, some of which come from AMD.

If you've got a ton of cash, of course, there are even more options. In fact, we've thrown an Intel Xeon chip into the mix to show both how things might have been at the high end and also how you can get round Intel's increasing tendency to sandbag.

It's also worth noting that from a PC performance and gaming enthusiast perspective, now is a really great time to buy. Next year's Haswell chips from Intel are highly unlikely to bring dramatic increases in CPU performance. On the AMD side, we had hoped to see the company really raise its game next year, but now that's looking unlikely before 2014. If ever.

So it's fair to say that a decent CPU bought today will still be competitive for several years to come. As Arnie says, then, do it. Do it now. 

 

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   Find a motherboard that supports your processor. Take note of the processor socket (ex: LGA 775), the memory module type (ex: 240-pin) and the RAM frequency (ex: 1066 MHz) in choosing a motherboard. Some motherboards come with features such as HDMI and Firewire, so look for a motherboard with these features if desired. Beware of high frequency RAM. While it may at first seem that any computer part which works harder or faster must certainly be better, this is not always the case. The benefits of high frequency RAM are inconsistent and it is known to have a high failure rate. Consider this before you buy.^[3] You should note the number of pins for your memory module only because of how it will connect to your motherboard. More pins does not equate with better performance. The same can be said of the processor socket: different types to not necessarily indicate performance.

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   Get enough RAM to meet your needs. Having more RAM, or desktop memory, will offer smoother performance and shorter loading times. Choose memory that is within your budget from a known manufacturer. There are many different memory manufacturers, but a select few make quality memory. You will want to choose the highest clock speed (the rating in MHz) and the lowest timings as possible (displayed in #-#-#-#) -- the performance of your memory relies greatly on them.You will want to buy enough memory to run your applications. Understand that while your games may say that 1GB is enough, what it really means is that it’s enough to run the game badly. If you want games to run smooth, generally you should overshoot the requirement.32-bit CPUs can only support up to 3GB of RAM; 64-bit CPUs can support much more.DDR2 Memory runs Dual Channel, so remember to buy memory in pairs: 2 x 512MB is better than 1 x 1GB. Take note of the pin type. 184-pin sticks are DDR(1), 240-pin are DDR2. Do a bit of research on your chosen motherboard to see what it supports.

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   Choose a video card. This may be one of the most important, yet toughest decisions to make because there are so many different video cards on the market. Because there are so many, the best way to find your card is to look for reviews on cards within your budget. Currently the two leading video card companies are ATI and NVIDIA, but other companies such as Sapphire and eVGA are licensed to produce these cards. Use review websites such as Tom's Hardware to compare performance between videocards. Currently, the Radeon HD 6670 DDR3 is a good entry level graphics card. The GeForce GTX 650 Ti Boost 2 GB is a good mid-range card. The GeForce GTX 780 is a good high-end option.^[4] There have been some confusion on the NVIDIA cards, which are recommended by gamers. A higher number in the card name does not mean it is better. A GeForce 7950 would be much better than a GeForce 8500. The first number is the card series, while the second and sometimes third indicate performance level.If you really want to pump up the game, and you have a motherboard that can support it, get 2 identical cards from the same manufacturer and run them in SLI (Nvidia), or Crossfire (ATI) mode. This is generally a bad idea, however, unless you already have a top of the line card, because it's cheaper and more efficient to get a single better graphics card.

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   Choose your hard drive storage. Games, audio, and videos require plenty of space to store the large files associated with media such as these. Read reviews on hard drives and choose the best for the price. Check the specs to make sure it runs at at least 7200 RPM, because you can potentially get better performance with higher values.

   • Faster hard drives will only affect game loading times, and even then not by much. Focus mainly on ensuring that you have enough storage space and do not prioritize hard drive speed.

   • SATA cards are currently the best choice because their small cables allow for better airflow and transfer speeds than traditional PATA cables.

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   Choose a power supply. Check the power of the power supply. Power supplies come with either 20-pin or 24-pin connectors. Get the same number of pins as your motherboard has so that it will connect. Be sure that it meets all the recommended power requirements for your parts, such as the graphics card.

   • It is important to remember that most power supplies that come with cases are of low quality. Consider replacing it with one that is more powerful and more efficient as soon as possible.

   • 350 Watts is the minimum you should expect for modern computers. More powerful components such as high-end video cards may require 500 Watts or more.

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   Purchase a case. Never overlook the importance of your case. After all, it houses all the expensive parts that run your computer. Here you will want to focus on cooling.

   • Some cases use 80mm, others use 120mm fans, and some are built for both. Generally, larger fans produce less noise and push more air through your case. More powerful components will require more cooling, so be thoughtful of which case you purchase.

   • If possible, you will want to have equal pressure in your case. Usually, you will want to have back fans blowing out, front fans sucking in, top fans blowing out, bottom fans sucking in, side fans sucking in.

   • A mid-tower case is standard, but a full-tower case may be necessary if you have a high number of peripherals, such as CD-ROM drives and hard drives.

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   Choose an operating system. With all the above components purchased, you will want an operating system which can make use of the system you have put together. When it has installed, check online for driver updates.

   • Windows tends to be the best operating system for gaming, though you may initially want to choose Windows 7 over 8, as some of your older games may have compatibility issues with the new system. This will not be an issue for any games released during and after 2013, however.

 Benchmark analysis: It's all about the numbers

Picking some of our benchmarks is easy enough. The x264 HD test is a great guide to video encode performance. It's straight in. Cinebench gives a glimpse of how CPUs perform in professional applications which major on threading. Stick that on the list.

Memory bandwidth is interesting in terms of the insight it gives to platform scalability and, therefore, makes the grade. Then there's power consumption, which will split opinion in terms of its relevance on the desktop. At the very least, it reveals the underlying efficiency of a CPU architecture.

Of course, we're big fans of overclocking so that's a critical benchmark. All of which just leaves the critical matter of gaming. With so many game titles out there, what do you go with?

 

 

Well, World in Conflict has several things going for it. It's scales well with CPU performance, for starters. Just as important, it's got a thing for single-threaded grunt. That's not to say extra cores have no impact. But you need beefy cores to get the best from it.

Given that several of the other benchmarks we use give a good guide to multi-threading performance, World in Conflict provides that critical worst-case scenario in terms of games that need strong per-core performance.

And the winner is… Intel Core i5-3570K

The computer industry has become obsessed with ultra-mobile. Eventually, that's going to do horrible things to the desktop PC. It's already putting a cap on desktop CPU performance.

The good news is that the worst has yet to come. Today's CPUs still offer almost all of what we really care about. There's configurability in terms of sockets. There's overclockability from all of AMD's chips and some of Intel's. And there's no shortage of choice.

This month, we've chips ranging from two cores and sub-£100 all the way up to eight cores, 16 threads and nigh on £1,500. We're still in the golden age of desktop computing, even if it is the dying days.

The joker in this pack is AMD's A10 Fusion chip. It sits alone in this test by virtue of a unique CPU socket that's a function of its integrated graphics. That makes it a very different proposition from a chip that can drop into any old AM3 motherboard and that takes it out of the running. It's an interesting chip for media centre larks. But it's not a serious player in the mainstream desktop game.

As for the rest, the AMD FX-4300 is first up against the wall. That's not because it's a particularly bad processor. It's just not cheap enough in comparison with others.

We're not crazy about the Intel Core i3-3225, either. It's quite pricey for a dual core. And you can't overclock it, which is a major downer.

Then there are the two big-iron chips on the LGA 2011 socket from Intel: the Core i7-3970X and Xeon E5-2687W. They are both absolute beasts. And they're both silly money, unfortunately. If you've money to burn, fair enough, they're spectacular performers.

From here on in, it's very tight indeed. In fact, of the remaining processors you can make a convincing argument for every single one being our overall winner. The Intel Core i7-3770K, for instance, is a monster. It's insanely quick for a quad-core chip. And you can have that performance on the sensible LGA 1155. But if you're a bit game-obsessed, like we are, it's hard to justify the £250-plus price tag. It simply won't deliver more tangible in-game performance than either of the Core i5 chips. So it's goodbye to the 3770K.

Next up is a three-way tie for second place between the AMD FX-6300, the FX-8350 and the Intel Core i5-3470. Depending on your budget and what you like to do with your system, any of these three could be your perfect processor partner.

As ever, we lean towards game performance, so the Core i5 gets our vote. All of which leaves the Intel Core i5-3570K with the spoils of victory. Yup, it's a tediously predictable result. And not one we can justify in objective terms. We know that £30 is a lot to pay for what amounts to an unlocked CPU multiplier. We wish Intel didn't do things that way. But it does, we want that extra control and we're willing to pay for it.

හොඳම computer එකක් ගන්නේ කොහොමද ?

හොඳම computer එකක් ගන්නේ කොහොමද ?

            ගොඩක් අය පරිගණකයක් ගන්නකොට උත්සාහ කරන්නේ දැනට තියන හොදම computer එක ගන්න හදන එක.ඒ අය හිතන්නේ එහෙම ගත්තහම සැහෙන කාලයක් පාවිච්චි කරන්න පුලුවන් කියලා වගේම අනිත් එක්කෙනාට වඩා ලොකු එකක් ගැනීමේ අදහසත් ඒ අය ළඟ තියනවා .ඔබ අද ගත්ත computerඑක මේ මාසේ තියෙන හොදම computerවෙන්න පුලුවන්.එත් මතක තියාගන්න මාසෙකින් පස්සේ ඔය computerඑක පරණ බව.ඒ හින්ද තමාට තමාගේ අවශ්‍යතාවට ගැලපෙන පරිදි තෝරාගන්න උත්සාහ කරන්න.

එ සදහා මේ ලිපිය ඔයාලට ගොඩාක් වැදගත් වනු නිසැකය.මුලින්ම එහෙනම් කොම් එකේ කොටස් ටික දන්නේ නැති අය හදුනගෙන ඉන්න.

හරි එහෙනම් මෙන්න මේ ප්‍රදාන කොටස් නිසි ආකාරයෙන් හදුනගෙන ඔයාලා ගන්න හදන කොම් එකත් එක්ක සසදලා බලන්න.

Processor / CPU / Central Processing Unit

මේක තම පරිගණකයක වැදගත්ම කොටස . දැන් නම් Market (වෙළද පොලේ) එකේ තියෙන්නේ Core 2 Duo / Core i3 / Core i5 / Core i7 මේ වගේ Processors තමා . මේවා වලින් Intel සමාගමට අනුව Desktop/Laptop පරිගණක සදහා තියන ඉහලම Processor එක Intel Core i7 Processor එක . එහි වේගය හා එහි ඇති තාක්ෂණයන් ඉහත තියෙන හැම Processor එකකකටම වඩා ඉහළින් තිබීම තමා ඒකට හේතුව .නමුත් තමන් පරිගණකයක කරන වැඩ අනුව ගැලපෙන processor තෝරාගන්න ටිකක් හිතලා බලන්න ඕනේ. මොකද මේවා මිල ගනන් වලින් වෙනසක් හා වේගය අතින් වෙනසක් තියෙන්නවා.ඒ විතරක් නෙමේ,Processorsවල තියෙන්නවා Cache Memory (L1, L2, L3)කියල කොටසක්, ගොඩක් කට්ටිය මේ ගැන සැලකිලිමත් වෙන්නේ නැහැ . දැනට නම් Cache Memory 1MB – 12 MB දක්වා අලුත් CPU වල තියෙන්නවා. Cache Memory වැඩි වෙන තරමට පරිගණකයේ වේගය හොඳ මට්ටමක තියාගන්න පුලුවන් , නමුත් Cache Memory වැඩිවෙත්ම එම Processor එකේ මිල වැඩිවෙන බව මතක තියා ගන්න. අපි මෙහෙම හිතමුකෝ , ඔන්න අපි කඩේකට ගියා , Processor වර්ග 2 ක් තියෙන්නවා

Intel Core 2 Duo 2.9 GHz [ 2 MB Cache Memory ] – Rs. 20000.00
Intel Core 2 Duo 3.2 GHz [ 4 MB Cache Memory ] – Rs.20000.00
මේ වගේ වෙලාවක ඔය තෝරාගන්න ඕන 4 MB Cache Memory එකක් තියෙන Processor එක. මොකද දන්නවද ? මේ Processor 2 වැඩ කරන කොට පැහැදිලි වෙනසක් Intel Core 2 Duo 2.9 GHz [ 2 MB Cache Memory ] වලට වඩා Intel Core 2 Duo 3.2 GHz [ 4 MB Cache Memory]බලගත්තහැකි .නමුත් මෙය යලිත් වෙනස් වෙනවා තමන් එම පරිගනකයේ කරන වැඩ අනුව.තවත් CPU වල එන දෙයක් තමයි Core ගණන. මෙයින් අදහස් කරන්නේ එක CPU/Processor එකක් තුල Processor කීපයක් තීබීමයි. උදාහරණයක් ලෙස අපි Intel i7 CPU එකක් ගත්තොත් එහි Core 2කේ සිට 6දක්වා තියනවා. මෙයිනුත් පේනවා i7 එකක් ගැනීමෙන් පමණක් පරිගණකය වේගවත් නොවන බව, i7 CPU එකේ විවිධ මාදිලි තියන බව, එයින් තමන්ට ගැලපෙන processor එක එහි මාදිලි අනුව තෝරාගන්න ඕනේ කියන එක. Intel Core i5 චලද Core 2 කේ සිට 4 දක්වා තියනවා. සමහර විට i5 core 4 ඇති එකක වේගය i7 core 2 අකක් ඇති එකකට වඩා වැඩි වෙන්න පුලුවන්. අලුතෙන් එන Sandy Bridge තාක්ෂණය යොදාගන්න Intel CPU වල VGA පවා දැන් එනේ CPU එක තුලයි. මේවාත් CPU එකක් ගැනීමේදි සැලකිලිමත් වෙන්න ඕනේ දේවල්.

Ram / Random Access Memory / Main Memory

Processor එක ලගට වැදගත්ම දෙයක් RAM/ මේයට Main Memory කියල ද කිනවා. Ram එක අදාල තරමට තිබීමෙන් computer එකේ වේගය හොඳින් පවත්වාගන්න පුලුවන්. නමුත් ඕනෑවට වඩා RAM තිබීමද තේරුමක් නෑ. Processor කොපමණ වේගවත් වුනත් අදාල වැඩසටහන් හා OS එක වැඩ කරන්න උවමණා කරන ප්‍රමාණයට RAM නැතිනම් පරිගණකය මන්දගාමී වෙයි. Windows 7 පරිගණකයකට 4GB Ram ප්‍රමාණවත් වෙයි. 4GB සදහා ඔබට Install කරන්න වෙන්නේ 64 Bit Operating System එකක්. 32 Bit Operating System එකක්ක පාවිච්චි කල හැකි උපරීම RAM දාරිතාව වෙන්නේ 3.5 GB . නමුත් පාවිච්චි කරන්න හිතාගෙන ඉන්නේ Onboard VGA එකනම් ඉතුරු RAM ප්රනමාණය VGA එකට ගන්න කියල කියන්න පුලුවන් , ඔබගේ Motherboard එක ඒ සදහා සහය දක්වනවා නම් . ඒ විතරක් නෙමේ 4GB Ram ගැහුවොත් 2GB Card 2 එකක් යොදාගන්න. Ram card 2 කක් නම් එකම වර්ගයේ එකම ස්පීඩ් එක තියෙන RAM වර්ග තොර ගන්න. අදාල Motherboard එකකේ සහය දක්වන RAM වේගයන් සදහන් වෙනවා. ඒ අනුව ගැලපෙන් RAM එක තෝරාගන්න.

HDD / Hard Disk Drive / Solid State Drive

                   අපේ පරිගණකයේ අපිට අවශයය සියලුම දත්ත හා තොරතුරු ගබඩා කරන්නේ Hard Disk එකේ කියල අපි හැමෝම දන්නා කරුණක්. නමුත් ගොඩක් අය දන්නේ නැති දෙයක් තමයි දැනට පරිගණකයක තියන වේගය අඩුම කොටසත් මේක කියලා. මෙය නිසා ඔබේ පරිගණකයක CPU/RAM කොපමණ වේගවත් උවත්. HDD එකේ වේගය නිසා ඔබේ පරිගනකය slow වෙනවා. උදාහරණයක් ලෙස Windows boot වෙන්න යන කාලය, Application එකක් open කරන්න අයන් කාලය. මෙයට හේතුව HDD එකක් ඇතුලත් ඇත්තේ electronics කොටස් වලට අමතරව යාන්ත්‍රික කොට. ඒ නිසා මේ යාන්ත්‍රික කොටස් වෙල වේගය ගොඩක් අඩුයි. මෙම නිසා දත්ත කියවීම ලිවීම ගොඩක් වෙලා ගතවෙනවා.

                  HDD වල වේගයන් බලන්න ලෙහෙසි ක්‍රම කීපයක් තියනවා. එකක් RPM එක, දැනට ලංකාවේ තියන ගොඩක්ම HDD 7200RPM නමුත් සමහර වෙලාවලට 5400 ද තියනවා. ඊට අමතරව HDD එකේ ඇති RAM ප්‍රමාණය. ඊලගට වැදගත් වන්නේ Interface එක. ගොඩක් දැන් එක පරිගනක මවුපුවරු SATA 2 සහය දක්වනවා, අලුත් ඒවා SATA3 සහය දක්වනවා. මවු පුවරුවේ ඇති SATA port වල උපරිමයට ගැලපෙන් HDD එකක් තෝයාගැනීම වදගත්. මවු පුවරුව SATA3 නම් එයට SATA2 HDD යෙදීම පරිගනකයයේ උපරිම වේගය ලබානීමට බාදාවක්.

              මේ පූර්ණ යාන්ත්‍රික HDD වල වේගය විසදුම ලෙස දැන් SSD හෙවත් Solid State Drive කියා එනවා, මේවා තනිකර ඉලෙක්ට්‍රෝනික වන අතර වේගය ඉතාමත් වැඩියි. නමුත් ධාරිතාව තවමත් එචර ලොකුවට නෑ වගේම මිලෙන්ද අධිකයි. SSD එකක් සවිකොට එයට OS එක හා Application දමා, දත්ත HDD එකකට දැමීමෙන් පරිගණකයකට විශාල වේගයක් ලබාගන්න පුලුවන්. boot වීම තප්පර 5~6කට වගේ. SSD වල විදුලිය භාවිතය ගොඩක් අවම මට්ටමක පවතී.

Motherboard / Main Board / System Board

                

             පරිගණකයකට යොදාගන්නා CPU එකට අනුව motherboard එකක් තොරාගත යුතුවේ. Intel Processor එකක් නම් ගොඩක් වෙලාවට Intel Chip-set සහිත motherboard එකක්ම යොදාගන්න එක තමයි උවිත. නමුත් Motherboard සාදන සාමාගම ගැනද සැලකිලිමත් වෙන්න. බොහෝවිට Intel, Foxconn, MSI, Asus, EVGA වැනි සමාගම් ඉතා හොද motherboard සාදයි. CPU එකට ගැලපෙන් chipset එක තෝරාගැනීම ඉතාමත් වැදගත්. Processor එකේ Maximum Performance ගන්න පුලුවන් වෙන්නේ ඒ අනුවයි. Motherboard එකේ Sata Port , Front & Back Panel USB , RAM Slot, PCI Express Slot PCI Slot තමන්ට උවමණා වන පරිදි තියනවාදයි කියා සොයාබලන්න.

VGA / Video Graphics Array

           දැනට එන ගොඩක් motherboard වල on-board VGA එකක් එයි. මෙය බොහෝවිට low end (පහල පන්තියේ) VGA එකක් වෙයි. යම්කිසි කෙනකුට Games play කරන්න ඕනේනම් වෙනම හොද VGA card එකක් සවිකරගත යුතුවෙයි. VGA කාඩ් විකුණන වගේම ගන්න අය සොයාබලන්නේ VGA card එකේ ඇති මතක ප්‍රමාණයයි. නමුත් මෙය නොවෙයි වැදගත් වන්නේ.

            VGA card එකක් හරියට පරිගණකයකට සමාණයි, එහිද RAM, CPU (GPU) පවතිනවා. ඉතින් VGA එකක් ගන්නකොට මුලින්න බලන්න ඕනේ තමන් play කරන games මොනවාද කියලා. ඒ අනුව එම games වල තියනවා තිබිය යුතු VGA එක ගැන විස්තර. එයින් බලන්නෙ ඕනේ GPU (Graphics Processing Unit) එක මොකද කියලා, හරියට පරිගනකයේ CPU එක වගේ. දැන මුල් පෙලේ GPU හදන සමාගෙම දෙක තමයි ATI (AMD) හා Nvidia, Intel සමාගම GPU සෑදුවද මේවා low end වේ. ඉතින් හොද GPU එකක් තෝරාගන්න, VGA RAM ප්‍රමාණය 512MB වීම බොහීවිට ප්‍රමාණවත් වෙයි.

           අදලා VGA card එක තමන්ගේ motherboard එකට ගැලපෙනවාද කියා සොයා බලන්න, දැන් අලුතෙන් එන සියලුම VGA card PCI-E slot එකකට ගැලපෙන ලෙසයි එන්නේ, එවිට motherboard එකේද PCI-E slot එකක් තිවිය යුතුයි.

Power Supply

                            ගොඩක් අය සැලකිලිමත් නොවන දෙයක්, පරිගණකයක් හරියට ක්‍රියාත්මක වෙන්න නම් ඒ සදහා හොද Power/විදුලියක් ලබාදියි යුතුයි. අපිට තියන CPU එක, VGA Card එක වගේම DVD, HDD ප්‍රමාණය අනුව අපි මිලදීගන්නා power supply එකේ watt ප්‍රමාණය තීරණ කල යුතුයි.
                       i7 සහිත HDD දෙකක්, DVD එකක් හා VGA card එකක් ඇතිනම්. බොහෝවිට VGA card එක මගින් ලබාගන්නා watt ප්‍රමාණයද සදහන් කර තියෙනවා. මේ වගේ එකතුව අනුව අදාල Power Supply එක ගත යුතුයි. අඩුම වශයෙන් 500w වත්. නමුත් අද වෙලදපොලේ අඩුවට තියන මේ power supply සදහන් කර ඇති බලය ලබාදෙන්න බෑ. මෙවැනි 450w ලෙස සදහ කරපු power supply එකක මිල රු.1750 පමණ වේ. නමුත් සැබෑ 450w ලාබාගත හැකි power supply එකක් රු.4500~6000 පමණ වෙනවා. CPU casing සමග එන power supply ද හරියට සදහන් කර ඇති watt ප්‍රමාණයක් ලබාදෙන්න බැරි ඒවා තමයි.
ලබාදෙන බලය පරිගණකයක ප්‍රමාණවත් වන්නේ නැතිනම්, එය stuck වීම, රත් වීම වගේ විවිද දොෂවලට මුහුණ පාන්න පුලුවන්.

හරි එහෙනම් ඔන්න දැන් ඔයාලට දැනුමක් එන්න ඇති කොහොමද හොද එහෙමත් නැතිනම් ෆට්ට කොම්පියුටර් එකක් ගන්නේ කියලා..

How Repair BAD Hard Drive

Symptoms of PCB failure:

• No power. No Spin. No Sound. and wasn't dropped.
• Hard drive does not spin up. Either no sound or a short, quiet tickling sound can be heard.
• Burning smell. PCB is extremely hot.
• See burned mark on the printed circuit board.
• Power surge.
• Connect the hard drive case to wrong power supply.
• Hard drive makes "Clicking sound".(click of death)

Symptoms of Seagate 7200.11-12 firmware brick problem:

• The hard drive runs fine (no clicking sound or noises, errors etc), but can't be detected by the computer
• The hard drive runs fine and but the size is 0MBs

Symptoms of disk assembly failure:

• The computer can see the file, but cannot copy the file.
• The computer can see the hard drive, but the size is wrong
• The hard drive does not spin but make "beeping sound"
• failure is because of Falling to the floor, most likely the PCB board is ok, but the disk assembly is damaged.
• clicking and stop and clicking

An Overview of a Hard Drive

The figure below illustrates the major components of a hard drive. We're not going to focus too much on the theory of operation of a hard drive because there are already plenty of documents available on the web that can do that. Instead, we'll go lightly over how a hard drive works and then focus specifically on failures, and how they manifest themselves to the end user.

When a drive needs to read or write data to a drive, the CPU on the logic board sends a set of commands to the drive through what's called an I/O controller. The I/O controller, which is on the logic board, is usually connected to the drive via an interface cable. The commands the I/O controller uses are fairly high level, such as "get me this number of blocks of data between points A and B on the drive" or "write the following blocks of data to the drive between points C and D." This is obviously an over simplification. Once the I/O controller delivers the commands, it's the duty of the drive controller to implement them and return the appropriate response codes, and in the case of read operations, data back to the system.

Data is written to and read from the drive platters via the drive's heads, which are positioned via an actuator arm. The actuator arm behaves in a manner similar to the tone arm on a record player, but it's constantly moving around on the platter at very high speeds. The drive platters are coated with a magnetically modifiable material that can be used to store information based on the localized magnetic state of a region of the platter. The information on the platters is broken down into what are called cylinders and sectors, along with tracking and positioning information. The tracking information is read by the drive heads and interpreted by the drive controller to position the drive heads to the regions of the platter that will eventually be used to read or write data on the platter.

During a write operation, after the controller positions the drive's heads over the appropriate region of the drive, they modify the surface of the platter by inducing an electromagnetic field over the magnetically modifiable platter surface. During a read operation, the spinning nature of the platter is able to induce a current into the heads much in the same way that a moving magnet can induce a current into a wire. The storage unit on the platter is the sector, which typically stores 512 bytes of information, although newer drives may have sector sizes of 4 kilobytes.

The drive controller, which isn't seen in the diagram is, for those that have seen  a contemporary hard drive, the circuit card that usually takes up the better part of the bottom of the drive. The drive controller is responsible for positioning the drive heads over the drive's platters (the media used for reading and writing data,) activating the drive's heads for reading and writing data when the heads are properly positioned, interpreting and converting the data to a format the CPU can understand, and then sending the appropriate codes to back to the CPU via the I/O controller. During a write operation, the controller will send the system codes indicating whether or not the write operation succeeded. During a read operation, the controller will send the system blocks of data accompanied by response codes indicating the operation succeeded or failed.

The platter is connected to a spindle, which in turn is connected to the spindle motor. The spindle motor is not seen in diagram, but it's underneath the platter(s) and spindle. The spindle motor keeps the platter(s) rotating at a constant velocity, with todays drives typically using speeds between 5400 and 7200 RPM, with some higher performance drives using speeds as high as 15000 RPM. The actuator arm rotates about an actuator axis, with one end having wound coils embedded between a set of actuator magnets, and known as the actuator. The position of the actuator is controlled by increasing or reducing  the current passing through these coils, which cause the actuator to move. All of these functions are controlled/regulated by the drive controller.

Drive Failures and How They Manifest Themselves

Drive failures can generally be categorized into the following classes:

    •    Electromechanical

    •    Mechanical failures

    •    Head/platter failures

    •    Controller failures

Electromechanical failures typically affect the spindle motor or the actuator. Spindle motors, like any motor can simply burn out. The actuator is typically connected to the controller via a flex cable that can develop cracks, break, or become disconnected. EIther of these failures are catastrophic failures, and the drive will not be accessible by the system. Either of these problems can often occur without warning, but a failing spindle motor may be preceded by higher noise levels during the drive's operation.

If either of these problems occurs, the only way to recover the data will be to send the drive to a facility that specializes in data recovery and attempt to recover the data by pulling the platters from the drive in a clean room, putting them on a donor device, and then recovering the data. Failures of this nature often leave the platters unaffected and the odds that data recovery will be successful is reasonably good, but this procedure is typically expensive. Failures of this nature are usually due to age, and the older and more used a drive is, the higher the probability of their occurrence is.

Mechanical failures are typically, once again, related to the spindle motor and the actuator. In this case the typical cause of failure is bearing wear. The drive's heads typically "float" over the surface of the platter by only a few nanometers, and as the bearings in one or both components wear, it causes excessive motion of the heads over the platters, eventually resulting in head crashes with increasing frequency. The head crashes damage the sectors of the drive containing data, and as time progresses, the problem gets worse and worse. These problems are typically accompanied by drive noises.

If mechanical failures start to occur, you should make sure that you're backing up data frequently, and you shouldn't be surprised if some files fail to backup because they're unreadable. If you use a test tool such as Scannerz, the tell tale sign of this problem will be the development of confirmed bad or weak sectors (damaged, but still readable) on the drive with increasing frequency. In extreme cases, a head crash caused by this problem may spew platter material over other regions of the platter, causing other head crashes. The older a unit is, and the more use it receives, the higher the probability is that this problem will occur. Any regions of the platter damaged will either be unrecoverable or only partially recoverable.

Head and platter failures can occur on any drive, new or old. They're typically referred to as a "head crash." In the preceding two paragraphs we described how they can be induced by mechanical failure, but they may also be induced when the drive is subjected to excessive shock or when a contaminant enters the chamber of the drive. Head/platter failures are characterized by the presence of bad or weak sectors, but in the case of impact or contamination, these may be one time events. In some cases, they may be caused by actual defects in the platters surface.

In the case of shock or sudden impact, the drive is typically in the process of reading or writing to the drive when the event occurs. This problem is obviously more common with laptop computers that might be dropped while in use. The impact causes the heads to be forced onto the platter, damaging the media. The result is typically a range of bad or weak sectors localized to a region of the drive. Many contemporary systems and drives have sensors installed on them to move the heads off the platters in the event of impact, but they aren't 100% reliable - they cannot perform miracles!

In the case of contamination, a particle of some sort has "leaked" into the drive chamber. Hard drives are not working in a vacuum environment, they rely on the presence of air in the drive chamber to "float" the drive's heads over the platter. To equalize the air pressure, drives have a small breather hole with a filter on the exterior of the drive. If a particle can make its way past this filter, the particle may come between the platter and the heads, thus damaging sectors. The damaged sectors may be bad or weak sectors, or a combination of both.

Crashes due to impact are more common in laptops, particularly if the computer is dropped while in use. Crashes due to a contaminant entering the chamber can occur on any hard drive at any time, but they're not common. In most cases, these are one time events, but if the crash is bad enough, it may spew other damaged platter materials over the surface of the platter causing other sections of the platter to be damaged. In severe cases, the heads themselves may be damaged in which case the drive is typically rendered useless.

Bad or weak sectors caused by media should, theoretically, be detected and corrected by the drive manufacturer prior to releasing the product for sale. However, some sectors can tend to lose their ability to retain information over time. This is usually a localized problem and can often be corrected by formatting the drive to re-map the bad sectors to spare sectors.

It is not uncommon for a hard drive to develop some bad sectors. In many cases, this problem can be corrected, but with hard drive prices being as low as they are, in our opinion it's not an unreasonable to consider replacing the drive. As stated earlier in the chapters regarding mechanical failure, if the bad or weak sectors are being caused by such a problem, the number of bad or weak sectors will only continue to increase. Efforts to salvage a drive are often time consuming, and if the problem is actually being caused by a developing mechanical failure, the repair process will need to be repeated over and over again. We recommend that the users of our Scannerz line of products that opt to repair a drive increase testing initially to confirm that the problems are not increasing with use.

Controller failures can range from the obvious to the insidious. An obvious controller failure could be caused by a failure of the supply regulators on the drive controller preventing the controller from actually  powering up. If components on the controller fail, in most cases the controller will prevent the drive from being seen by the system. If a drive is having intermittent problems of some sort, the drive activity is typically very erratic and unpredictable. Last but not least, the controller, being essentially a small computer system itself has its own firmware which can, unfortunately have some bugs in it, and drives suffering from this problem are often recalled by the manufacturer. Controllers do fail, but the reality is it's the most reliable part of the hard drive and the least likely to fail. Most controller failures make the drive completely invisible to the system.

Drive Related Problems

A hard drive may appear to be suffering from a problem, when in fact it's being caused by another component. The most common problem is usually a bad cable or connection in the data cable or power cable between the system and the drive. Another, more obscure, and often difficult to isolate problem can occur when cracks develop in the logic board or connectors on the logic board that lead to the drive. All of these problems are typically erratic and difficult to repeat, and they usually get worse as time progresses. Logic board components themselves may be failing erratically, but in this case the result is most often that the system will fail to boot or crash repeatedly without warning.

Symptoms of Hard Drive and Drive Related Problems

The typical signs of a drive or drive related problem are usually the following:

    1.    The drive is making excessive noise

    2.    The drive isn't recognized by the system at all

    3.    The system appears to periodically lock up or delay, often accompanied with a "spinning beach ball."

Item 1. above, if confirmed, is truly a drive problem, and it typically indicates that the drive is failing and needs to be replaced. Items 2. and 3. however, may not be drive related, but caused by other problems in the system or even the software.

Hard Drive Noises

Abnormal hard drive noises typically consist of the following:

    •    Clicking noises

    •    Grinding noises

    •    Squealing noises

    •    Noises similar to a vibration noise

Optical drives may make some of these noises as well, and it's relatively easy to confirm this because noises from an optical drive will only occur when the optical drive is in use or being activated or checked by the system. For the rest of this article, we'll assume that the optical drive has been eliminated as the source of noises.

Clicking noises may or may not be a problem. If the drive has head problems, a repetitive clicking can be caused by controller detecting a failed operation and repeating it over and over again. These will be fairly loud, repetitive clicks. If the drive controller has failed or the firmware has a bug in it, a repetitive clicking sound may be generated by the drive heads slamming into an actuator arm stop (or even the spindle.) These too, will be fairly noticeable and repetitive. Other drives are just plain noisier than others by design and may be characterized by rapid, mild clicking or rattling sounds as the actuator arm moves over the surface of the platters during read and write operations. This is more common in older drives. The general rule of thumb is to be aware of clicking noises that are new, as opposed to noises that existed from day one. New, loud clicking noises, particularly if they're repetitive usually indicate the drive is failing if it hasn't already failed.

Grinding noises can be repetitive, random, or continuous. One type of grinding noise, although we're not sure it should really be called a grinding noise, is a periodic and repetitive "chug-a-chug-a-chug-a" noise, often accompanied by "spinning beach balls." This is typically being caused by the drive attempting to access a bad or weak sector. A bad sector will generate an I/O error, but a weak sector can be read, it just takes a long time (often seconds) to read it. If you're using Scannerz for drive testing, a bad sector will be a sector that fails with an error every time it's scanned, and a weak sector will be identified as a repeatable irregularity. Other grinding noises are usually caused by mechanic failure in the process of developing. Bad and weak sectors can, in some cases be corrected, but mechanical failures indicate that the drive is in the process of failing, and steps should be taken to backup the drive while it's still usable.

Squealing noises coming from the drive can be caused by several sources, with none of them being good. The noises may be erratic or consistent. Consistent squealing usually indicates that the spindle motor that drives the platters is failing. Erratic squealing may also be the bearings in the spindle motor failing, but they may also be sourced to the bearings in the actuator, or possibly even the heads of the drive dragging across the surface of the platter. These are all serious, catastrophic failures in the process of occurring. You should attempt to backup the drive as soon as possible…if it's even possible.

Noises similar to a vibration noise typically occur when an item in the drive is in the process of seizing. The noise is usually due to binding of either the spindle motor bearings or the actuator bearings (more common.) In some cases, the electromagnetic energy being supplied to either of these components may eventually allow the component to free itself and the vibration ends in an almost erratic manner, only to occur again. These are signs that the drive is failing and needs to be replaced. Data should be backed up and the drive replaced as soon as possible. However, as you'll see in the next few paragraphs, you will need to make sure the noises need to be properly traced - a set of bad drive mounts or perhaps a drive that isn't properly tightened or installed can end up presenting the user with similar sounds.

If a drive is suspected of making noise about the only thing you can do is confirm the source of the noise is the drive, and if confirmed, retrieve as much data as possible and replace the drive. There aren't very many moving components in a computer system, but the source needs to be identified. Other sources of noises in a system that can often sound like hard drive problems consist of the following:

    •    Vibration in other parts of the unit

    •    Noisy cooling fans

    •    Optical drives

    •    Other drives

Of the list above, vibration of loose components can be the trickiest to isolate because vibrating components, especially shielding, may correlate with drive activity because the drive's vibration is inducing the noise into the component making the noise. Unfortunately, some modes of drive failure also sound almost exactly like noise associated with vibration. In some cases the unit may need to be opened up and the actual source of the noise traced to its source.

Cooling fans have bearings, and when their bearings begin to fail, the noise can be similar to some of the squealing noises a failing drive can produce. The difference between the two is typically that, at least in most systems, the speed of the fans varies and at some times the fans may not be running at all. Another problem occurs when another component, such as a wire or a piece of shielding is making contact with the fan blades. This can induce a vibration-like noise that may be mistaken for a failing drive. One way to determine if the noises correlate to fan operation is to put your hand over the vents of the system and see if the noise corresponds to air movement being generated by the fans when the system is running a little on the hot side.

Optical drives can often produce noises that can be similar to the sounds generated by a failing drive. In laptops, optical drives are known to cause vibration noises as their mounts come loose or they come into contact with shielding material. Optical drives when initializing or loading optical media may often make clicking noises. Optical drives can fail, often going through cycles of resetting and repositioning the heads producing a repetitive clicking noise similar to that of a failing hard drive.

Finally, if a system has multiple hard drives in it, and it's believed the noises are being generated by a hard drive, the owner will need to determine which drive is making the noise. One way that might help identify the problem is to unmount the secondary drives one by one using Disk Utility to see if the noises stop. This may work, especially if the unmounted drive stops spinning, but in some cases the drive may continue spinning and further evaluation will be needed.

The Drive Isn't Recognized by the System

If the hard drive isn't recognized by the system, it may or may not be a drive failure. The following items identify what can cause the drive to be unseen:

    1.    The drive's controller has failed

    2.    The drive's power source has become disconnected

    3.    The drive's data cable has become disconnected

    4.    The drive isn't formatted or it's in a format the operating system doesn't recognize

    5.    System Management Controller (SMC), NVRAM, or PRAM need to be reset

    6.    The drive's indices are corrupt

    7.    A logic board problem exists

The drive not being recognized by the system may happen to both primary (bootable) and secondary drives. On a primary drive, the system will fail to boot and when the system is powered on, the user will be confronted with one of the following symbols:

Software Problems

Technically, software problems aren’t typically drive problems, but in some cases they may make the system experience lockups and delays similar to those described in the preceding section. Generally speaking, software problems can be often be traced to the following:

    •    Spotlight indexing

    •    Anti-virus software

    •    Driver problems or conflicts

    •    Intensive background processes the user is unaware of

Spotlight indexing, particularly in Leopard and Mountain Lion can be particularly problematic. During an indexing session, Spotlight will index every file on attached drives as defined in Spotlight’s Search Results and Privacy settings in System Preferences. Indexing is drive, CPU, and often memory intensive. When indexing occurs it’s not uncommon for some applications that normally “pop up” when launched to take many seconds to launch, along with “spinning beach balls.” The easiest way to check this is to click on the Spotlight icon in the upper right section of the menu bar and check if it’s in the process of indexing or beginning an indexing session.

Some anti-virus software will cause problems similar to drive problems because they misidentify valid applications or processes as viruses and block them from running, thus causing lockups and delays. The easiest way to check this is to disable the anti-virus software, see if the problem clears up, and if it does, contact the vendor for assistance.

Driver problems or conflicts can sometimes occur, particularly with add on devices such as external hard drives after an operating system is updated or upgraded. Problems can range from extremely slow performance to what appear to be drive failures. If problems that didn’t exist prior to an operating system update or upgrade, you should contact the vendor and ask if there are any known conflicts they’re aware of. If possible, you might want to try to remove any drivers.

Finally, some applications may install CPU or drive intensive processes that work in the background without your knowledge. Two tools that can help isolate this are Activity Monitor, included with the operating system, and FSE, which is a file system events monitor that we sell. Before considering purchasing an FSE license, please read the product profile for it and the information on the section of our site dedicated to FSE because it is generally not a tool for novices. All versions of the fully featured version of Scannerz come with a version named FSE and FSE-Lite.

  by:http://www.scsc-online.com/Bad%20Hard%20Drive%20Signs%20and%20Symptoms.html

A common sign that a PCB has been in the wars is a scorch mark, but sometimes there are no visual cues to give the game away. 

How to repair Hard Drive

First things first

The PCB might not be the problem after all, then, but it's the one area of the drive that you should tackle first when something goes wrong. After all, a replacement PCB from a specialist like www.hdd-parts.com will set you back around £25 delivered to your door, so it's a relatively inexpensive way of fixing your drive.

If you were feeling plucky, you could just go to a data specialist and get a man in a white coat in a lab to carefully take your entire hard drive apart and put it all back together, in the hope of rescuing your drive, but you'll be looking at a bill for at least £1,000. Unless you really, really need the files on that drive, you'll avoid this route and go down the PCB road first.

Back to life

Does it really work? Well, we tried it on a drive that had suddenly stopped working one day. There were no horrible clicking sounds, it simply wouldn't power on – the thing was lifeless. So, we replaced the PCB with an identical working one and managed to get it working again.

This wasn't after trying it on many different drives – this was the first one we'd worked on, so it wasn't a fluke.

It's worth mentioning that if this works for you, and there's a pretty good chance that it will, once it's up and running again, don't get lazy and put it back in your PC. If it failed once, there's a probability that it will fail again. Our advice is to transfer all your sacred files to another drive and then bin it… or pop it in the trophy cabinet.

. Take drive details down

Get a replacement PCB identical to your current one, otherwise it won't work. Note down the model number (below the S/N), the P/N, the Firmware code, Date code and Site code, as well as the Main Controller IC number, which is located on the main square black chip in the middle of the actual PCB. In our case it was the six-digit code near the top, above the word 'SEAGATE'.

2. Search for it online

Go to hdd-parts.com and enter the model of the dead drive (in our case, it's the 11-digit code two lines down from the top of the drive) into the search box at the top of the page. This won't give you the exact model, but look through the list of results and find the drive that matches all the numbers you noted down in the first step. Now, buy it!

3. Check your parts

The new PCB should take about six to 10 working days to arrive through the post. When the mail man comes round, you should receive a box with a replacement working PCB inside, as well as a torx screwdriver and installation instructions – not that you'll need this last bit. If something is amiss, email the company and they will get back to you within a couple of days.

4. Remove the old PCB

On top of the PCB you'll see five screws connecting it to the hard drive. Undo them using the torx screwdriver included in the kit, making sure that you don't lose any of them. They're pretty tiny, so once you've managed to remove them all, place them into a zip-lock bag so they don't go astray if you decide to have a break between now and the next step.

5. Attach new PCB

Make sure you ground yourself – an easy way of doing this is to put on an anti-static wrist band – and then carefully take the replacement PCB out of its anti-static bag. Pop it onto your old hard drive, making sure you line it up with the original screw holes. Take the screws from your zip-lock bag and screw the PCB down, ensuring each screw is reasonably tight.

6. Try out your drive

Turn on your PC. Then connect your hard drive to your dock, plug it into the PC and power it up. If the problem with your old drive was due to a faulty PCB, replacing it should now allow your drive to be recognized properly. Access the files you need, then copy them to your PC. Don't attempt to use the drive once this is done: chances are it might turn faulty in the future.

How to get data back from NTFS partition?

What is NTFS?

Before I introduce how to get lost data back from NTFS partitions, let's learn some knowledge about NTFS. NTFS (short for New Technology File System) is the standard file system of Windows NT, including its later versions Windows 2000, Windows XP, Windows Server 2003, Windows Server 2008, Windows Vista, and Windows 7.

NTFS supersedes the FAT file system as the preferred file system for Microsoft's Windows operating systems. NTFS has several improvements over FAT and HPFS (High Performance File System) such as improved support for metadata and the use of advanced data structures to improve performance, reliability, and disk space utilization, plus additional extensions such as security access control lists (ACL) and file system journaling. NTFS has become more and more popular. However, data loss issues from NTFS partitions are also have a rapid rise even if you take every precaution to avoid it. This article will give you a free solution to get lost data back from NTFS drives.

Get data back from NTFS volume

Do you think it's difficult to get data back from NTFS partition because of the advantages of NTFS file system? Nowadays it's quite easy to achieve the aim with NTFS hard drive recovery software. Many professional data recovery software can get data back for NTFS. Millions of search results will appear if you google "get data back for NTFS". After a long time seeking and experience, I recommend you a free NTFS data recovery software, EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard Free Edition to get data back from NTFS volumes. Here's a tutorial for how to get data back from NTFS with this free NTFS partition recovery software.

Use EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard Free Edition to get data back from a NTFS volume containing lost file(s) or folder(s) and which didn't lose the partition, please free download and launch this freeware at first.

1. Click the "Complete Recovery" button on the main window of Data Recovery Wizard Free Edition.

2. Select the file types you want to recover.

3. You can see a list of your logical volumes found on your computer.

4. Choose the NTFS volume you want to recover and press the "Next" button. Data Recovery Wizard Free Edition will read file system on selected NTFS volume.

5. After this scanning is finished, you'll see file/folder tree. You can preview some of them, such as:

Why not download the free NTFS data recovery software to get your lost data back now?